Frequently Asked Questions

Quick Links:
Do I need to do anything prior to my pool/spa opening appointment?
Once my pool/spa has been opened, what next?
What do I need to do before closing the pool/spa?
Do I need to do anything after the pool/spa is closed?
How long do I need to run my pool and how do I keep the water clear?
How often should I test the water?
Are pool chemicals dangerous?
What are the proper chemical levels to have proper water balance?
How often should I shock the pool?
After adding chemicals, how long must I wait before swimming?
How often do I need to backwash my filter?
Why has the pool water turned cloudy?
My pool has no flow or suction – what should I do?
Why won’t my heater come on?
The “inspect cell” light is flashing on my salt system, but when I check the cell, it’s OK... Why is it still flashing?
The “low salt” light is flashing. How much salt should I add and how should I add it?
How big is my pool?

Do I need to do anything prior to my pool/spa opening appointment?

The outside water and electricity must be on.  We will need access to the pool area and equipment/supplies. If you have locked areas, we will need the keys or lock codes prior to your appointment.  For those with safety covers, we recommend you add (1) quart of algaecide and (5) gallons of liquid shock to the pool in mid-April.  Please contact our office if you would like to schedule American Pool Service to perform this service.  Solid covers should be drained and cleaned prior to our arrival.  Solid covers with water and debris are subject to a cover removal surcharge.

Once my pool/spa has been opened, what next?

Opening services are the start to getting your pool (and spa) up and running optimally for the season.  We recommend you test and adjust water chemistry, empty pump and skimmer baskets and check filtration system a minimum of (3) times per week to maintain peak performance.  As the initial chemical treatment does its work, you will notice that debris will solidify and fall to the bottom of the pool.  Backwash or clean the filter and vacuum the pool as needed.   If you have a time clock, once the water is crystal clear and the pool is running optimally, you should set the time clock.  We recommend a minimum of a 12-hour cycle, however a 24-hour one, at least initially, is best.  Heaters should be serviced by a licensed contractor every year similar to your house furnace.  Insects and rodents have been known to cause considerable damage over the winter months resulting in a safety hazard.

What do I need to do before closing the pool/spa?

The pool and spa should be maintained, i.e. cleaned, water balanced, up until time of closing.  This prevents staining to the plaster finish or vinyl liner as well as the development of scale.  A well maintained pool and spa will help ensure a more carefree opening in the spring.  Those that have time clocks inside their homes should shut the clock down and remove the timer clips just prior to your closing appointment to avoid unwanted system start up.

Do I need to do anything after the pool/spa is closed?

You should periodically check the pool and winter cover. For those with safety covers, it is important to check the water level before the final freeze. The water level should be about 10” below the tile, but never more than 16” from the top of the pool as this will void your cover warranty. Keep the cover free of debris and excessive snow build up. If you have a solid cover, replace any water tubes that go flat. Remove any autumn leaves and pump the cover off prior to the first freeze and during the spring months. Covers should only have 2”- 4” of water on them. (Some water is necessary in order to keep the cover from lifting in high winds.) Keeping the correct water level prevents excessive wear and tear on your cover.

How long do I need to run my pool and how do I keep the water clear?

We recommend a minimum of 12 hours, however 24 hours is ideal.  If the water is cloudy, run the pool 24 hours a day until the water clears.  Test and balance your pool water, brush the pool and vacuum weekly.  Backwash or clean the filter as needed.

How often should I test the water?

A minimum of (3) times per week.  Maintaining proper water chemistry is vital to getting the most efficient use of your chlorine supply, resulting in less money spent on costly chemicals and other cleaning agents.  A proactive approach is your best defense against algae growth and other conditions that can lead to unnecessary expenses and loss of pool (and spa) use.  Continual monitoring of your pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness and cyanuric acid levels will help prevent liners from fading and/or cracking as well as thwart corrosion of the pool heater, filter, pump and plaster finish.

Are pool chemicals dangerous?

If not handled properly, they can be dangerous.  It is important to handle them carefully and to read the manufacturer’s labels for instruction on proper use and storage. Some general guidelines include using only chemicals approved for your pool, pre-mix in a bucket of water before adding to the pool or as per manufacturer’s instruction and never mix chemicals together. 

What are the proper chemical levels to have proper water balance?

pH: 7.4 – 7.6 is ideal
Pool Chlorine: 1.0 – 3.0 is ideal (can be as high as 5.0)
Spa Chlorine: 3.0 - 5.0
Alkalinity: 80 – 120 ppm
Calcium Hardness: 250 - 500 ppm
Cyanuric Acid: 30 - 50 ppm (can be as high as 100ppm)

How often should I shock the pool?

A minimum of once a week, more after a storm or heavy bather load or if the water is cloudy. Adding shock will help prevent problems such as algae, chlorine odor and cloudy water. It also helps eliminate contaminants from both swimmers and the environment.

After adding chemicals, how long must I wait before swimming?

Depending on the amount of chemicals you have added, waiting 30 minutes to an hour is a good idea. You want to make sure the chemicals have been dispersed throughout the pool. Test the water to ensure that the pH, free chlorine, total alkalinity, hardness and cyanuric acid are within an acceptable range.

How often do I need to backwash my filter?

Backwash when filter pressure is 7-10 lbs above the start up pressure or when pool circulation slows. 
Start up filter pressures vary with each filter and filter type. Average start up pressure of filters are as follows:
DE: 15-20 psi
Sand: 10-15 psi
Cartridge: 12-15 psi

Why has the pool water turned cloudy?

There are many possible answers to this question:

  • Poor filtration… Try backwashing or cleaning your filter. Make sure your filtration system is running a minimum of 12 hrs/day. We recommend it run 24 hrs/day until water is crystal clear again.
  • Water is out of balance… Test the water for pH, free chlorine, total alkalinity, hardness and cyanuric acid. Click here and enter the data: www.poolspatest.com
  • Contaminants have built up… Shock the pool.
  • Chemical residue… if you have been using an unstabilized chlorine, use a stabilized one.
  • Algae… Add high quality multi-purpose algaecide 60 and brush, brush, brush the pool.
  • Metals… Add "Metal Out” or a comparable product.  Follow manufacturer’s instructions.
  • Unfilterable particles… Try using a “Floc” product and vacuum. Follow manufacturer’s instructions.

My pool has no flow or suction – what should I do?

Check the pool water level; it should be half way up the skimmer. Check to make sure the skimmer weir door is not stuck. Check and clean or backwash filter if needed. Make sure filtration valves are in correct position.

Why won’t my heater come on?

Check and make sure the pilot is lit and that you have a supply of gas. The filter may need backwashing or cleaning. If none of these correct the problem, call the office for assistance.

The “inspect cell” light is flashing on my salt system, but when I check the cell, it’s OK.  Why is it still flashing?

The cell requires periodic cleaning and this indicator may likely be the reminder to do so.  We always recommend you refer to your owner’s manual and the troubleshooting guide to further assess the problem or call us for service.

The “low salt” light is flashing. How much salt should I add and how should I add it?

First, use your test strips to test the salt levels. It could be that the probe needs to be cleaned and the salt level is fine. Salt is usually packaged in 40 lb. bags, one bag per 1500 gallons of water will establish a 3200ppm salt residual in a fresh fill scenario. 3200ppm of salt is adequate for the majority of chlorine generators. It is important to know the gallonage of the pool. If unsure, start on the low end and work upward. Salt should be added by pouring it along the edge of pool, preferably in the deep end with the pool running. Once added, brush to dissolve completely.

How big is my pool?

In order to be able to figure the right dosage of chemicals or salt to add to your pool, you first need to know your pool’s capacity in gallons. One of the measurements you will need is the pool’s average depth (shallow end depth plus deep end depth and divide by two). Residential pools typically hold between 22,000 and 35,000 gallons of water. Use the following formulas to find your pool’s capacity in total gallons:

For rectangular pools: Length x Width x Avg. Depth x 7.5
For oval pools: Full length x Full width x Avg. Depth x 5.9
For circular pools: Diameter (north to south) x Diameter (east to west) x Avg. Depth x 5.9